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Style reveals substance

Category: Style (page 3 of 5)

Two variations of black and white outfits

Melania has recentlyish worn two black-and-white outfits, both very different.

First up, the “competent” outfit (seriously, this exact outfit is what you get when you search “competent woman).

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Gets the job done, is classic, the end. Not especially stylish or Melania-like (except for that subtle white stitching detail), but it works for this venue. She’s doing a job that’s focused on conversation, not on herself.

Nest up, the “fashion” outfit. The cropped, wide-leg pants (which you can’t see because I refuse to embed the images that Getty has which have her from a slightly below angle which makes her look awful) are very now, and the double-breasted yet tailored jacket is quite a striking look.

 

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She’s also doing her job here, but in this case the entire point of the job is a photo-op — to look at her.

Military-inspired

Remember when I said that Melania looks better in harder-edged or military-inspired clothes?

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QED.

EXO and NCT Dream on KBS Music Bank

SM Entertainment’s team of stylists remain <<<hashtag GOALS>>> on my mental list of all things stye-related. Once again, they concocted another set of outfits that are simultaneously group-oriented, classic, individual, and insane. So many contradictory ideas go into making K-pop group styles. Oh, and each one reflects its group’s current overall concept.

To quote Rachel Zoe circa 2006, I die.

First up, we have NCT Dream promoting “We Young” with a Peter Pan theme. From what I can tell, SM’s idea of Peter Pan is half traditional schoolboy, half found objects with a pseudo-island theme. There are a lot of belts.

 

Each member is wearing the same silhouette, with different details. We have a bold version of the schoolboy jacket, long shorts all the same length, but three boys in white and three in khaki, and the same red socks, but different shoes for each. Each boy is also wearing some variation a vintage-inspired rhinestone pin. Again we have a cohesive color palette, blue, white, and red.

Renjun has a small red bandana tie and is relatively accessory-free. I feel like he and Doyoung (of NCT 127) get similar treatment as the “smart” ones of their respective groups — relatively simpler outfits, plus glasses and a more preppy overall vibe.

Haechan is wearing three (3!) bolo ties, and of course his red hair brings together the various red ties and socks of the group. He has turned aegyo up to 11 in the performance, and it’s kind of adorable.

Mark gets a striped collarless shirt, beads (?) and a raccoon tail hanging from his belt loops. He also has a fringed grass belt (again: ???). I think they throw absolutely incomprehensible outfits at Mark sometimes to toughen him up. If he can pull off a grass skirt and a raccoon tail, he can pull off anything.

Chenle’s shirt has a face on it, and he gets a full red bandana. His shirt is the most off-palette — everyone else has a white or light blue shirt — probably because he still has fantasy purple hair. Can’t let that hair float out on its own, it has to get drawn in to the whole somehow.

Jeno appears to have a mop hanging from his belt. I like his contrasting collar. He continues to absolutely SLAY this comeback. The platinum hair suits him, and he comes across as more fluid, comfortable, and fun. He’s a great dancer, which I didn’t always notice in past comebacks because he was so stiff.

And Jisung! Jisung with his bright blue hair and his incomprehensible shirt that appears to be a cluster of Union Jacks. He has a lipstick pin and his necklace appears to be tennis rackets (or maybe waffles?).

Just when I think I start to understand the logic behind k-pop styling, it escapes me again. It’s a little like the visual version of “Engrish.” (Which of course is partially why I like it.)

In the same show, EXO performed their newest comeback song “Power.” Please take a moment to appreciate the thumbnail of Xiumin and his fantastic hair before you click play on this video.

EXO is a more group-oriented…group…so their costumes also tend toward cohesion more than individuality-within-a-theme. Each member gets his own version of the sporty jacket, and they all have different undershirts that underline their individual looks, but they look much more like a team and it would be much harder for a newbie to tell the members apart simply by clothing (unlike NCT Dream up above where you could pick out a member based on accessories).

The wizardry in this costuming choice is the SM stylists managed to make pinstripe pants that somehow don’t automatically make their wearers look like bankers or baseball players. I repeat: PINSTRIPE PANTS THAT DON’T SUCK.

Plus, they’re paired with Member’s Only style jackets with pulled-up ankle socks and don’t look like they were ripped straight from the 80s. It’s that vaporwave influence creeping in again. Wizardry.

It probably helps that EXO are now next-level clothes wearers and performers. With that in mind, I can’t wait to see what kinds of batshit outfits the NCT subgroups will get in five years when their members have climbed to EXO’s level.

If you want to see the two groups in action together, NCT Dream stayed out onstage during EXO’s encore. Adorable.

Don’t listen to the media, Melania

Dear Melania,

I realize that you’ve undergone quite a bit of scrutiny in the past few weeks for the clothes that you choose to wear. While I don’t know what it’s like to be that lambasted in the public spotlight, I imagine that there’s immense pressure to change.

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Given that your favored style falls somewhere in the category of “elegant former fashion model” rather than “sporty everywoman” or “uppercrust GOP” like other first ladies, it would be difficult picking out outfits that are suitable and appropriate for disaster situations.

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However, that doesn’t mean you have to dress like a 70-year-old lady. This temporary media storm is going to blow over no matter what you do. Making a u-turn into khaki pants, Chanel flats (ugh!), billowy shirts and 1970s cape dresses is not going to make the media love you.

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You still look pulled together, but you don’t really look like your normal self. Your normal style elements are there — a restricted color palette, tailoring, bold sunglasses — but there’s a restraint, almost a staleness around your choices. (Like that pale dusty green, so like a wallflower, which you are not.)

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Despite what the media says, it’s okay to be yourself. The people who voted your husband into office don’t mind the fact that you once posed for a photo in a fur and metal bikini and have a fondness for stiletto heels. We appreciate you for it, just like we appreciate your husband’s affinity for gold-plated everything

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Please continue being your elegant self. Disaster or no, the media will always find something to complain about.

This too shall pass. In the meantime, wear more stilettos.

Sincerely,

Trump Supporters

4 artists, 1 tree

[Trigger warning: Disney]

Back in the days when Disney wasn’t (as) evil, they produced this video about artists working production of Sleeping Beauty. It covers just as much about the nature of art as it does about the nature of teamwork on such a big project.

There are so many things to say about this piece.

Often there’s this perception that as an artist you must always have your own voice and always strike out on your own trail. Obviously this is a propaganda piece from Disney (it’s as much of an job advertisement than anything — yo, young guys who might be interested in art, it’s okay you can keep your identity and we want you to be the best artist you can possibly be but also Disney is a really great place to work join the army), but it’s important to think about artists working on such a huge project as a hand-animated movie. Every artists, from the character designers to the background artists, has to subsume his own personal style and quirks to the greater whole. The animation style has to be reproducible by all of the artists, not just one guy, so nobody gets a monopoly on design.

At the same time, there’s the sense of camaraderie, of people pulling together to work on something that’s bigger than each of them. I’m reminded of artisans working on cathedrals, or the reasons people give when they join the army. Walt Disney’s narration takes a similar view: “This entire operation puts one in mind of a symphony orchestra, where men who are good enough to be soloists in their own right are thinking only of the effect they are producing on the whole.”

While the movie is a visually stunning and cohesive end product, there’s the vast differences between each man’s individual styles. Some of the end products are very 50s looking, but that’s okay. You have the architectural/structure guy, the 3D/form guy, the personality guy, and the detail guy. You can see their strengths in the individual art they produce, and can see how those strengths would be of benefit when they all combined as a group.

Marc Davis

Character Animator (refining the ideal character in motion)
Tree as explosion of force – reorganized into its most decorative aspect

 

Eyvind Earle

Production Designer
Tree as a microcosm of the richness and variety of nature
“Portrait of a trunk”

 

Josh Meador

Supervising Effects Animator (magic fairy dust)
Tree as a living thing, full of personality

 

Walt Peregoy

Background Artist
Tree as engineering, structure

Personally, I find it fitting that they’re working on Sleeping Beauty, which I find to be the most beautiful of all animated Disney movies. The backgrounds (especially the animated backgrounds!) are one of my very favorite things, and the “dueling fairy dust” scene is one that I can distinctly remember watching as a child. Since there are no coincidences, of the four artworks produced in the making of this film, I favored the study of the tree trunk painted by the background scenery artist.

On a technical note, I appreciate how the script was written to both give the reader a sense of conversation, but also to explicate and narrate each artist’s focus and process. The end result does sound hokey (because it’s neither natural conversation nor a polished voiceover) but despite that it kept me engaged. Kind of a peek behind the curtain of how everyone worked together as a team, with complementary thought patterns in addition to art styles.

This is the best kind of “behind the scenes” production. It gives insight into the process of making the movie, highlights some of the people who do the work, and allows Disney to explain some of their philosophy of art. Plus, it’s interesting to watch.

Daydreaming about an apartment

The upside of being forced to move is that I get to look at a lot of apartment listings, and visit apartments, and daydream about life would be like if I lived there.

What would I be like in a 1930s deco apartment? Would I start wearing pearls and iron all my clothes using the fold-down ironing board in the kitchen, whistling?

Would I take up a new hobby in the 1-bedroom from the early-90s with the farmhouse sink and in-unit washer/dryer? Would that savings of time and effort lend itself into something bigger, or would I end up watching YouTube on the couch I’d have to buy?

What about that converted studio right off the bus line? It was so small I’d be forced to become the tidiest person in all the land. But it had a real, working fireplace taking up most of one wall, so maybe I could rig up an honest-to-God spit roast.

And then there’s the one, that apartment that’s the right balance of price, amenities, and aesthetics. This one is a little quirky, perched in the trees like a little treehouse, with two longhouse-style roof poking up like mushrooms among the undergrowth. It was built in 1976, and it brings out the artist in me. In it, I’m actually looking forward to the winter rains.

I envision that this will be the home where I continue to heal physically and push myself ambitiously. It’s so delightfully “1970s Pacific Northwest Treefort” that it’s diametrically opposite of most of the interior design trends that are happening today. It will be a fun challenge to build an interior life that is 1. cozy, 2. an extension of myself, but that 3. fits the delightfully wonky vibe of the place.

I’m not sure what that’ll look like yet, but it will be glorious.

Visual style connections in a k-pop group

NCT 127 has backed off from heavy promotions of their summer album Cherry Bomb (which is quite delicious and I highly recommend a listen if you’re so inclined). However, they still come out for public appearances every now and again because SM knows how to feed the voracious internet fandom content-consuming machine.

Here are the NCT 127 boys at an appearance (guest hosting?) beats1 radio this week.

For the uninitiated // Top: Win Win, Taeyong, Johnny, Jaehyun // Middle: Taeil, Mark // Bottom: Doyoung, Yuta, Haechan

This photo reminds me how much I enjoy the styling of NCT 127. They are always impeccably group-oriented, from their outrageous urban stagewear to appearances like this which are very casual. Each member has his own individual style, but those styles blend into a visually cohesive whole — texture, color, it’s all in balance.

(Seriously, I have literally paused live performances of NCT 127 during the Limitless era just to marvel at the balance of costuming. I should do a post on it.)

On the group level

Color palette: black, white, dark blue, precisely three accents of red (and one echo of pink hair)

Repeated pattern types across members

  • Spaced-out, white based negative space (Win Win’s palm trees and Taeil’s … running men?)
  • Text (Taeyong, Jaehyun, Win Win’s hat, and maybe Haechan’s sleeves if you squint)
  • Densely packed patterns (Mark’s plaid and Johnny’s camo)
  • Poor Doyoung’s red rugby-striped shirt is all lonely (however, it talks to Haechan’s red hair and Taeil’s red shoes)

Repeated outfit “tropes” across members

  • Black hats: Win Win, Taeyong, Mark
  • Unbuttoned shirts: Win Win, Taeil, Jaehyun, Yuta, and maybe you can count Taeyong with his jacket
  • Casual, tousled hairstyles

I realize that I am reading a lot into this picture, but I don’t for a second believe that an entertainment powerhouse like SM Entertainment that literally coaches its trainees on how to describe and market each and every single that they promote doesn’t image-manage their artists for every possible public appearance.

On the individual level

  • Taeyong is wearing Gucci and a jacket: our fearless leader is repping his visual status as usual.
  • Johnny is wearing something vaguely weird, as usual. He tends to get baggy tops.
  • Jaehyun is wearing something with an urban feel.
  • Mark is showing a lot of sock, which has been his thing lately.
  • Haechan is wearing shorts, again, his thing.
  • Yuta appears to be wearing a black shirt and pants under his blue overshirt — the stylists have been going with a “column of color” look for him lately and it’s looking good on him.
  • Win Win kind of looks like a 12 year old boy…which he tends to do always anyway.
  • Doyoung has long, oversized sleeves.
  • Taeil tends to own the “collard shirt over shirt” look in the NCT 127 group.

You can see some of these same outfit types echoed in the stagewear/red carpet appearance that I overanalyzed and distilled into an infographic.

In conclusion, NCT 127 tones down their batshit-yet-impeccable style for casual appearances and still looks perfect.

THANK YOU AND GOODNIGHT.

Melania dresses for the occasion

Let’s start this post off with a photo with great rhythm.

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Secondly, to all the people who claim that Melania is trolling the media by wearing stilettos on the plane to her second trip to Houston, she’s not. She wears stilettos quite often, actually. Continuing to wear them in the face of media outrage is just business as usual.

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This is a total aside, but I swear her superpower is walking on grass in stiletto heels. She does it so gracefully and never gets stuck — because I’m sure if she did, the photos would be all over the internet in seconds.

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That said, it’s a great khaki dress she’s wearing on this trip. I really like how military-inspired pieces look on her. Harder-edged clothes play well off her no-nonsense personality, maybe, in ways that softly elegant clothes don’t.

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Exhibit B for this observation, Melania dressing in work clothes for an event at which she’s going to — gasp — do work. Chambray shirt, olive khaki pants, Chuck Taylors. Maybe it’s the double-pocket detail on the blouse that works so well on her, but I really like both the khaki dress outfit and the chambray shirt outfit.

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On other occasions, like going to church, she dresses perfectly for the venue, all modest in pastel pinks and blues and floral shoes. The outfit is fine, but doesn’t inspire rapturous declarations of love and adoration.

Although I do love it when they dress all matchy.

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The Truth about Melania’s Shoes

Melania can’t get the optics right, you say? A failure in optics for whom, exactly?

Let’s see…

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Donald and Melania, striding through the night with a wind machine at their backs, like characters from an 80s action movie come to save the day in their matching jackets and kick-ass teamwork.

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Donald and Melania, descending from the clouds along with blue skies and a break from torrential rains, showing unity as they draw attention, resources, and strength to the Houston area.

Huh, that’s some spectacular failure right there. Looks pretty good to me.

The divisiveness over Melania’s shoes is yet another symptom of the divide that has been growing wider and wider in our country for quite some time now. Scott Adams likens it to seeing two different movies on the same screen.

I see it as upside-down world and rightside-up world. In my world, up is up, and I orient myself accordingly. In a leftist’s world, up is down, and they also orient accordingly. But when I talk about “up,” and they talk about “up,” we both think we are talking about the same thing (“up” relative to our own self) but we are objectively talking about two entirely different things altogether.

As people the post-Trump world has gotten less and less inclined to talk rationally to each other, the poles pretty much flipped. Sometime in 2016, I would have said that they were at right angles to each other — or at least not so far apart that you couldn’t connect on some level — but there was a point, probably 2 months before the election, when something clicked and we’re 180 degrees apart in perception.

So you have two audiences for Melania Trump’s optics:

  • Upside-Down World, who will always hate her no matter what because she’s married to the evil racist scary bigot orange unpresidential monster, and
  • Rightside-Up World, who are inclined to like her or are indifferent — or won’t judge her harshly simply because of who she’s married to.

Citizens of Upside-Down World don’t like that Melania wore stiletto heels on the plane and wish she would have worn something more appropriate.

Citizens of Rightside-Up World are wondering what the big deal is, and why the media is detracting from important issues like, say, catastrophic flooding in a major American city, in order to talk about a woman’s fashion choice.

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I like this photo of her both wearing the shoes and carrying her own umbrella.It’s satisfying. Upside-Down Worlders seem to think that if a woman is wearing stilettos, she can’t do anything for herself.

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So which is more truthful?

“Hi, I’m Melania Trump, former model who speaks 5 languages and is married to an incredibly successful and wealthy man who also happens to be President of the United States. Like most former models, I like expensive clothes. I’m in a non-flooded area wearing the type of outfit that reads ‘utilitarian’ but only on a fashion runway. These are shoes I typically wear.”

or

“Hi, I’m Melooneeoy Troomp, a beaten and broke down woman who is trying to rehab her image in the eyes of ‘the people.’ Even though I’m not going to be anywhere near the Cajun Navy, and literally nobody expects me to do that, I’m going to dress up in a costume like I’ll be out on the boats rescuing people anyway. Because optics.”

People in Upside-Down World need Melania to wear the sartorial equivalent of a lie, because it looks better, rather than her wearing what she would normally wear as the person that she is. Perhaps it is less of a need than a want — they want the photographic illusion that someone is helping. (Really though, they just want to nitpick and complain.)

Most of the people in Rightside-Up World understand that the President’s help is mostly on a ceremonial level — he will not be helping personally, but with policy and money and manpower and influence — and that dressing up in honest-to-goodness work clothes for a photo op would be patently ridiculous.

What Melania wears in this situation is mostly secondary, but she — as always — chooses clothes that are tasteful, that suit the (real) occasion, that align her with Trump as a team, and that project elegance.

Her outfits are so well chosen it seems like her team is a bit prescient to how the press will react. If I didn’t know better, I’d think this was planned.

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Melania would kindly remind you who she is, and — more importantly — who you are not.

Melania Trump double feature

I should probably post about Milo at the VMAs yesterday, because 1. HOW DID HE GET AN INVITE? and 2. his hair was, as usual, amazing. But why talk about Milo when you could talk about the Slavic Wife of our God Emperor?

First up, a green dress with orange pumps. In theory, that sounds ghastly.

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In reality, it’s less ghastly but I’m still not totally sure I’m on board with it. I get that it matches the orange trim of the dress, so it’s not totally out of left field, but orange and green is a really tough color combination to pull off, for anyone. And, I appreciate her bringing some style to her shoes, unlike Catherine across the pond who wears the same boring shoes over and over again.

Overall, the look works. She’s giving off major MILF vibes.

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Next up, an outfit that reminds me of Jackie O. It’s been worn a thousand times by a thousand different types of women, and really it’s nothing to write home again. Cropped pants, ballet flats, blouse.

Melania is doing shades of pink. She tends to stay within one color family for an outfit, the “column of color” idea (except for when she doesn’t, see above). What gets me is that she takes such a steady outfit idea, and manages to look COOL wearing it.

Those sunglasses were an inspired purchase. They add just the right amount of edge to an outfit without being too outside-the-box.

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She also does a great job of setting herself apart from the two men surrounding her–both in blue and white.

PS. I kind of love that Barron is wearing Gucci loafers.

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